![]() ![]() I know not to sand the metallic paint but this is all clearcoat (non-catalized so it's not super hard), and was applied about a month ago. I have little money and a lot of time, so am willing to experiment some, but I don't want to ruin anything. If there is flaking paint or rust chips, remove them with a wire brush before sanding. No matter the project, finish with fine sandpaper to smooth the area. If the area remains rusty, use slightly coarser grits until the rust is removed. Also, I don't know what to finish the sanding job with if I need to go that route. Use sandpaper with fine grit between 320 and 400 and sand lightly. I already have inexpensive Rubbing compound and Polishing compound, but I don't know if this would be the right way to start. However, I'm wondering if I could just try an aggressive polish system with a DA polisher and skip the sanding. I figured i would color sand to get it uniform, then polish that out as necessary. I just want to make it look more uniform. Final Words On sandpaper grit for car paint. Then I applied U-pol #1 Clearcoat with UV which is really nice stuff, but also shows uneven spraying on the big panels. Assessing the Existing Paint: auto body sandpaper grit chart. High-performance medium fine-cut 6' sandpaper discs that have an easy-to-pull tab for peeling off the backing layer that protects the discs PSA pressure-sensitive adhesive from getting contaminated. I painted these panels with rattle cans of Sherwin Williams Acrylic Enamel using the original color code, which matched nicely but of course showed uneven spraying and fogging because the stuff dries so fast, you can't keep a wet edge on large panels. Box of 50 Dura-Gold Premium 6' 320 Grit Gold PSA Sanding Discs. The only surfaces I needed to fix were the hood and top. I was able to pretty well get the old clearcoat off with a razor blade and wet sand the rest pretty smooth. These adhesive-backed papers grip the block and are easily removed. For the final surface prep, 400-grit paper is used. I was trying to fix a '89 Mercury Grand Marquis with failed clearcoat. Mark Oja recommends 220-grit sandpaper for the initial cutting of the primer. I guess Seamonkey is incompatible with this forum for some reason. I was using a browser called Seamonkey under Linux. Do you know where Turtle Wax Rubbing and Polishing compounds fit in there? That is an interesting and helpful chart. I may have to wetsand it for overspray fogging from this job to make it more uniform looking, although I would like to try a polishing method first, but I don't know whether to try the polish "systems" or rubbing compound first or what. Grades 1-4 of polishes from Maquires, Griot's, etc.Īlso, what would you recommend after wet sanding a clearcoat (non-hardened U-pol #1) to fill the sanding, and final polish? This is a single stage clear coat over a metallic single stage acrylic enamel. Can you list in order of grit or cutting ability of these products (feel free to include anything else you may think of):Ĭommon rubbing compound (like Turtle Wax, for example) I am confused by the relative grits and cutting abilities of different products. I'm in process of learning this stuff the hard way (the only way I know) and I have some questions for you experts. I think it was use of an unusual browser. I'm not sure why the first post turned out with no paragraph returns, etc. ![]()
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